Kentucky Fried Chicken is owned, by a company with a
distinctively “uncorporate” name – Yum! Brands, complete with the exclamation
mark. This blogger is a vegetarian and
therefore has not really sampled its wares. But I am reliably told that its
fried chicken, is fairly delicious. But
these days, alas, KFC is not sounding very yummy.
The problem is in China. KFC is everywhere in China. I mean
everywhere. Sometimes I wonder if the icon of Americanism in China is not
McDonald’s or Coca Cola, but KFC. Every street corner seems to have one. The Chinese were happily munching or chewing
or licking, or whatever you do with fried chicken. All that changed in December
of last year. CCTV, that great bastion of broadcasting and China’s answer to Doordarshan, aired a program that claimed that local
suppliers to KFC had given its chicken excessive amounts of antibiotics. CCTV is more renowned for informing the world
that Xi Jinping had a good night’s sleep rather than do investigative
reporting. But, expose, it did. I am not aware of the merits or the details of
the case, but you can imagine what happened to the sales of KFC in China. It
dropped by a vertiguous 41% in January.
Ouch. KFC has recovered from earlier unfavourable events –
SARS and Bird flu, although it was responsible for neither. Apparently, the
Chinese can’t be kept away from fried chicken for long. But will it recover
from this latest blow ? The Chinese are fed up with food adulteration. Remember
baby food adulterated with melamine some 3 years ago.
Yum! Brands , is of course, not just KFC. Its also Pizza Hut
and Taco Bell. So the company will ride this crisis. But its exposure to China
is massive. Half its global sales of
some $4 bn comes from China. And this is the dilemma of China. The opportunity
is massive. But the risks are also high.
This incident also calls into question the issue of safety
or desirability of processed foods. Popular perception is that all processed
food is bad. Nothing could be farther from the truth. In fact the so called
“fresh” product is often the most unsafe.
Just compare tap water with Bisleri. If you knew what the “fresh
veggies” went through before they landed in your shop, you might be tempted to
turn non vegetarian. If you bought that raw turmeric from the store – well, I
will spare you the gory details of what that goes through. Will you buy milk
from the milkman if he brought the cow to your doorstep ? The less said about
hygiene in the neighbouring Udipi, the
better.
In general, responsible companies that process food take
greater care; from the farm gate to the time it is processed. Like for like,
processed food is actually safer than “fresh food” – unless you grew it
yourself. But as the KFC incident, or
the horsemeat problem in Europe shows,
there can be disastrous lapses there too. In the quest for profitability – individual
or corporate, risks are taken with food; chiefly pesticides in crops and the
cocktail of hormones and drugs with animals.
Any takers for retiring to the ancestral village (Sriram –
the distance from Eugene to Pattamadai is rather long !) and growing your own
stuff in the backyard ?